Boudoir – Habsburgs in díszmagyar.2




Here is the second part of the “Habsburg Boudoir” series featuring the members of the last royal family of Hungary in the official Hungarian court dress, díszmagyar. This article presents the Palatine branch of the family. The founder of the branch was Archduke Joseph, Palatine (nádor) of Hungary, son of Leopold II. His descendants were living in Hungary, thus the other name – “Hungarian” – of the branch. Even after the fall of Austria–Hungary and the dethronement of the Habsburg dynasty, the Palatine branch remained in Hungary and continued to play a significant role in the life of the Hungarian society. Their residence was in Alcsút, a beautiful Classicist mansion that was unfortunately destroyed during the Second World War.

Archduke Joseph Charles (1833–1905)
Source: Wikimedia Commons.

Archduke Joseph Charles, son of Palatine Joseph, in Hungarian semi-court uniform. Beloved by the Hungarians, he was actively involved in the development of Hungarian culture – Margaret Island was, for example, in the property of the Archduke and it was him who turned the island into a beautiful park with exotic plants.

Archduchess Clotilde, born Princess Koháry of Saxe–Coburg–Gotha (1846–1927)
Source: Wikimedia Commons.

Archduchess Clotilde in a gorgeous court dress – I believe she wore it on the occasion of the coronation of Francis Joseph I. The Archduchess had Hungarian ancestors – her father was from the Koháry branch of the princely house of Saxe–Cobourg–Gotha. The famous Clotilde palaces in Budapest, two fairy-tale like buildings on the bank of the Danube, are named in honour of Archduchess Clotilde.

Archduke Joseph August (1872–1962)
 
Source: http://geocaching.hu/cacheimages/2014-12/3078_20141207_182209.jpg
Archduke Joseph August in the aforementioned semi-court uniform. As the eldest son of Archduke Joseph Charles, Joseph August was the head of the Palatine branch. He was so popular among the Hungarians, that during the short-lived Red soviet republic in 1918, the Reds didn’t dare to lay a finger on him. In the “Hungary is a kingdom with no king” Horthy era, he was expected to claim the Hungarian throne. He later became the Captain General of the Order of Vitéz.

Archduchess Augusta, born Princess of Bavaria (1875–1964)
Archduchess Augusta, the wife of Archduke Joseph August, in Hungarian court dress. The image on the left was taken in 1896, when Hungary celebrated its Millennium, while the one on the right shows the Archduchess in her attire worn for the 1916 coronation. Note her mente on both of the pictures (I believe she wore the same piece in 1896 and in 1916). Mente originally didn’t form a part of the women’s court dress, and though there’re examples from earlier dates as well (see e.g. Archduchess Clotilde), it was around the Millennium when it became really fashionable among women.

Archduchess Elizabeth Henriette (1883–1958)
Source: http://alzbeta-sisi.blog.cz/1505/saty-cisarovny-alzbety-inspiracni-zdroje

Archduchess Elizabeth Henriette in her 1916 coronation court dress. Instead of a tiara, she is wearing the traditional Hungarian headdress of unmarried ladies, the párta.
Archduchess Elizabeth Henriette was the daughter of Archduke Joseph Charles and Archduchess Clotilde. Despite her ancestry, she never married. I often wonder what would have happened to Russia if Tsar Nicholas II had not married Alix of Hesse but another princess. What would have happened if he had married a Habsburg Archduchess? No haemophiliac heir, no Rasputin, no worse than the worst advices from the Empress – and more importantly, probably a totally different relationship between Russia and Austria–Hungary. If I had been the one to choose a spouse to the then Tsarevich, I would have considered Archduchess Elizabeth Henriette, even though there was a 15-year age gap between them.

Archduke Joseph Francis (1895–1957)
Source: OSZK MEK

Here is our first, full male díszmagyar on an Archduke – Joseph Francis, son of Joseph August and Archduchess Augusta. His attire also consists a white necktie, which is usually worn together with a kismagyar, the lesser-formal Hungarian suit.

Archduke Frederick (1856–1936)
Source: Wikimedia Commons.

And again a semi-court uniform, this time on Archduke Frederick. On his father’s side, Archduke Frederick was from the Teschen line of the Habsburgs, but on his mother’s side, he was a grandchild of Palatine Joseph. The Archduke served as the Supreme Commander of Austro–Hungarian Army during the First World War – after the war, the family moved to Hungary.

Archduchess Isabella, born Princess of Croÿ (1856–1931)
Archduchess Isabella, the wife of Archduke Frederick, in her Millennium and 1916 coronation court dresses. I am a little bit unsecure about her coronation gown, though – the apron is missing, which, given the official nature of the event, is quite unusual.
Apart from being an enthusiastic photographer, she was an active supporter of the Hungarian folklore and women’s education.

Archduchess Blanca, born Infanta of Spain (1868–1949)
Source: Wikimedia Commons.

Archduchess Blanca in díszmagyar on the occasion of the Millennium in 1896. She was married to Archduke Leopold Salvator of the Tuscan line.

Archduchess Gabriella (1887–1954) and Archduchess Marie Alice (1893–1962)
Source: http://alzbeta-sisi.blog.cz/1505/saty-cisarovny-alzbety-inspiracni-zdroje

Archduchess Gabriella and her sister, Marie Alice in court gown in 1916. Their dresses were rather simple – no mente, no long train, no rich embroidery or rich ornaments. However, I quite like this simplicity, making them look like young, teenage girls. Ever noticed how similar their dresses are? I believe the dresses are “twins” and the only difference between them is the colour of the derékalj part.

Archduke Albrecht (1897–1955)
Source: OSZK MEK

And yay, another an Archduke in a proper díszmagyar! Archduke Albrecht was the only son of Archduke Frederick and Archduchess Isabella, and for a short time he was considered as someone who can be a pretender to the Hungarian throne. However, all of his three marriages were morganatic and his relationship with the Nazi regime was also questionable.

Archduke Joseph Árpád (1933– )
Source: http://www.alamy.com/stock-photo-sep-09-1956-marvellous-wedding-in-bronnbachs-princely-house-in-the-69300079.html

And – for the time being – the last Habsburg on the list: Archduke Joseph Árpád, the son of Archduke Joseph Francis, in a (full!)  díszmagyar in 1956, on his way to his wedding with Princess Mary of Löwenstein. He is the current Captain General of the Order of Vitéz.

***

And the “odd ones out” – the persons on the following pictures are wearing díszmagyar or the semi-court uniform, however, they aren’t from the Hungarian royal family.

Emperor Wilhelm II of Germany
Source: pinterest.

It was a common habit among the European monarchs that they “donated” titles, honours and ranks to other rulers and members of foreign dynasties. Had they not, and we wouldn’t have the chance to see the German Emperor in a Hungarian uniform...

King Alphons XIII of Spain
Source: Wikimedia Commons.

... nor the King of Spain. Though the mother of King Alphons XIII was a Habsburg Archduchess and Hungarian Princess, it’s still strange a little bit to see him in the uniform of Hungarian royals. Not less strange than the Kaiser in the same type of uniform...

Thank you for reading!
Alla

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